Los Angeles, CA  -  July 2009

Written By Megan Arquette

Photographs By Coleen Rider



Max Stefanelli approaches his passion for work as he does his passion for food. Every aspect must be given absolute consideration with the standard of perfection being the ultimate criterion. Terrroni Partner and Manager, Stefanelli, sat one early evening, enchanting us with the history of the restaurant and his love for the art of food and the ultimate importance of the dining experience.

Pre dinner rush might be the most stress filled period of the day in any restaurant, but Stefanelli appears calm and quite focused as he takes time to sit with us to talk shop.  From time to time he gets up as a neighborhood patron or dining regular comes to greet him (one, presenting him with a gift of boxed Biscotti fresh from his family's bakery in Toronto).  An eager employee hovers for a moment, waiting for his turn to welcome the boss home from his recent trip to Italy. With all of the hugs, kisses and exchanges of heart felt warmth; it's easy to get the sense that this is a 'family' of true devotees. A community whose origins are based in the simplest of pleasures, the love of food and the experience of communal dining has given this venue the sustenance to thrive.

Terroni got its start in 1992, when friends Paolo Scoppio and Cosimo Mammoliti, opened the doors of their authentic trattoria, in of all places, Toronto, Canada. The intention was to create a grocery/eating establishment where one could pick up imported provisions such as Mortadella and Prosciutto or visit with a friend over cappuccinos. The name, being an homage to their Southern Italian roots, meaning, "of the earth", is generally used pejoratively by Industrial Northern Italians when referring to their, agriculturally centric, Southern countrymen. With a sense of humor, the name was chosen in an act of tongue in cheek complicity.

Several remodels and the addition of 2 more locations later, the seed had not only been planted but had taken root and blossomed into a notable, Canadian destination for authentic Southern Italian cuisine. Although the establishment had now become a 'chain' by definition, it held true to its requirements of attention to detail, quality and a passion for the business held by each employee (a large majority of whom were family members or very close friends). With the gain of business partner Stefanelli, a former lawyer from Italy, the concept of making a move to the states became a reality. Pairing up with seasoned Los Angeles nightclub owner, Shereen Arazm, the collaboration has proven to be an example of good instinct and business acumen.

The initial approach to the design of the new space, which sits on a busy street corner across from CBS studios and backed by a residential neighborhood, was to keep consistent some of the design features used in the other locations. The employment of generously ornate, crystal chandeliers in the kitchen and bar, juxtaposed to open air, utilitarian shelving is probably the most notable feature.

Stefanelli, who had his hand on every level of the design direction-including actually installing the tin ceiling tiles, found the enormous light fixture that hangs above the bar himself. The multi-tiered chandelier, a salvage yard find from an old theater was excavated- from the dirt and detritus in the yard's lot.  Its impressive scale and grandeur, creates a dramatic entrance as its refracted light bounces throughout the room while it suspends over the massive, dark bar.  On this evening, several patrons sit in the orange, vinyl coffee shop  style seats that surround the bar. Some sipped glasses of Italian wine, hand picked by Steffanelli himself, while others drank rich espressos from the stately cappuccino maker.  Throughout the rest of the room, small chandeliers of varying lavishness, adorn the perimeter, while bracketed iron shelving line the walls. The shelves, while graphically beautiful, are practical in purpose, stocked with grocery items available for purchase. 'Terroni' brand canned tomatoes stacked high next to bottles of imported olive oils remind you of the restaurant's initial concept. The feel is at once a nod toward vintage Trattorias found in urban Italian neighborhoods, while claiming a modern, beautifully art directed appeal. A contrast of styles creates the look, using custom mahogany booths joined by mid-century Eames chairs. A vintage drafting table poses as a hostess stand greeting diners with the hand scrawled request: 'please wait to be seated'. The design proves to be witty, with an elegant sophistication.


For Stefanelli getting the look and feel of the environment exactly right was as important as his approach to the food and wine he serves daily. Every ingredient must be hand picked, no matter what the cost.  Terroni makes no apologies for the caveats on their menu, 'No modifications, No substitutions, No reservations'. You're in good hands, 'trust us, we know what we're doing' is the message being put forth. If you're looking for an Italian Restaurant, American style, this is not your joint.  You'll find no breaded chicken on top of pastas dishes, or chicken anywhere for that matter 'Chicken is the fast food of foods, Something you'd make at home' Stefanelli says. In other words, not something you should expect when treating yourself to a special dining experience.  But you will find fresh pastas and a seasonally changing menu. One needs to be flexible when ordering as menu items may change throughout the night due to supply and demand.

As Stefanelli's time with us came to a close and all bases from the inception to the art of service and everything in between, seemed to have been covered, a waitress brought to us three wooden serving platters curated with a sampling of what Terroni's is all about. On one, 3 golden, Semolina breaded squash blossoms stuffed with a soft white cheese and herb mixture, on another perfectly executed 'Arancini' - little orange like balls, made of risotto with a crisp exterior. On the next plank, a trio of pizza dough bread rolls, split in half and filled with a layer of peppery Arugula, a spread of creamy mild cheese and  a thin layer of Prosciutto. If I were to have any requests for moderation or substitution, I'm not sure what they would possibly be, for these morsels were perfection on the palette. When dining at Terroni it is wise to remember the old adage, 'When in Rome, do as the Romans' however, in this case, 'When in Terroni' may become the new catch phrase. Let the experts be your guide, this is as much about the food as it is the experience.

Terroni
(323) 954-0300
7605 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles
Sunday through Thursday 11:00 to 11:00 PM
Friday and Saturday 11:00 to 12:00 AM
Chef: Luca Stracquadanio

Written by :

Balustrade and Bitters

 

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